DIAMOND GRADING - COLOR / CLARITY / CUT

 

Emerald Cut Heart Shape Marquise Cut Oval Cut Pear Cut Princess Cut Radiant Cut Round Brilliant Trillion Cut

 

DIAMOND COLOR

 

GIA Color Scale

D

E

F

G

H

I

J

K

L

M

N

O

P

Q

R

S

T

U

V

W

X

Y

Z

Z+

GIA Color Scale

Colorless

Near Colorless

Faint Yellow

Very Light Yellow

Light Yellow

Fancy

Trade Terms

Finest White

Fine White

White

Commercial
White

Top
Silver
Cape

Top
Silver
Cape/
Silver
Cape

Silver
Cape

Light
cap

Cape

Dark Cape

Trade Terms

Jager

River

Top
Wesselton

Wesselton

Top Crystal

Crystal

Top Cape

Cape

Low
Cape

Very Light Yellow

Trade Terms

Colorless

Stones in these grades look colorless
face-Up; slight traces of color will not
be apparent in mounted stones to other
than the trained eye.

Small stones in this range
will look colorless face-up
when mounted, but large
ones will be tinted

Mounted stones in these grades will display a yellowish tint even
to the untrained eye.

 

DIAMOND CLARITY

The following descriptions are mostly applicable to round brilliants in typical jewelry sizes; characteristics may be more visible in large stones and fancy shapes. When you assign a clarity grade, consider the size, number, position, nature, and color or relief of the various clarity characteristics. Summarize the factors; do not try to analyze them separately.

FLAWLESS DIAMONDS - FL Flawless diamonds show no blemishes or inclusions when examined by a skilled and experienced grader under 10x magnification. The following does not disqualify a stone from the flawless category
1) An extra facet on the pavilion which cannot be seen face-up.
2) Naturals totally confined to the girdle, which neither thicken the girdle nor distort its outline.
3) Internal graining which is not reflective, white, or colored, and does not significantly affect transparency.

 

VVS  - Grade DiamondsIF Internally Flawless stones show no inclusions and only insignificant blemishes under 10x. Normally what separates IF from FL Stones are characteristics that can be removed by minor re-polishing (light surface graining is an exception).

 

Very Very
Slightly
Included

VVS -  Grade Diamonds contain minute inclusions that are difficult for even a skilled grader to locate under 10x
magnification.

VVS1

   Diamonds contain minute inclusions that are difficult for even a skilled grader to locate under 10x
magnification they are extremely difficult to see, visible only from the pavilion, or small and
shallow enough to be removed by minor re-polishing.

VVS2

   Diamonds contain minute inclusions that are difficult for even a skilled grader to locate under 10x
magnification they are extremely difficult to see, visible only from the pavilion, or small and
shallow enough to be removed by minor re-polishing, they are very difficult to see.

 

Very
Slightly
Included

VS - Grade Diamonds.  Stones contain minor inclusions ranging from difficult.

VS1

   Contain minor inclusions ranging from difficult to somewhat easy to see.

VS2

   Contain minor inclusions ranging from difficult to somewhat easy for a trained grader to see under
10x magnification. Small included crystals, small feathers, and distinct clouds are typical.

 

Slightly
Included

SI - Grade Diamonds.  Stones contain noticeable inclusions which are easy to see under 10x magnification.

SI1

   Stones contain noticeable inclusions which are easy or very easy to see under 10x magnification.

SI2

   Stones contain noticeable inclusions which are easy or very easy to see under 10x magnification. In
some diamonds, SI2 inclusions can be seen with the unaided eye.

 

I - Grade Diamonds contain inclusions which are obvious to trained grader under 10x magnification, can often be easily
seen face-up with the unaided eye, seriously affect the stone's potential durability, or are so numerous they affect
transparency and brilliance.

 

Imperfect

I1

    Beauty and durability some defected.

I2

    Beauty or durability severely defected.

I3

    Beauty and durability are severely defected.

 

DIAMOND CUT

 

The brilliant cut diamond is the most common cut. The standard round brilliant cut or "ideal cut" as it was so aptly named has 58 facets. The brilliant style was devised to give maximum brilliancy and fire to the diamond. The diamond must be cut with exacting proportions to reveal its ultimate brilliancy and fire.

The emerald cut diamond is like a prism. Its large facets create a brilliance unlike any other diamond cut. It's final shape is dictated by the rough diamond prior to cutting, which results in a finished emerald cut diamond that can vary in proportions from a square shape to a long thin rectangle. It is an eight sided diamond that is most commonly found in a rectangular shape. The top face or facet of the diamond or "table" as it is called in the trade, is a large flat plane, larger relative to the outside dimension of the diamond than is often found in other diamond cuts. The emerald cut diamond is a form of the step cut where there are rows (steps) of elongated facets on both the crown (top) and pavilion (bottom) and are parallel to the girdle (edge) and have corner facets. The number of facets may vary, but the usual has three on the crown and pavilion. Because of the large size of facets found uniquely on the emerald cut it creates an almost "open" quality in the diamond allowing the eye to see well into it in a way that does not allow for the "hiding" of slight imperfections. (Slight imperfections in the interior of a diamond crystal can often be "hidden to the eye in the "confusion" of tiny facets or brilliance of other cuts of diamonds). 
The heart shape diamond is a variation of the brilliant cut. It is similar to the pear shape, although the round end is flattened somewhat and indented at the girdle to create the heart shape. The diameter across the shoulders should be equal to its length.
The marquis (marquise) cut is a variation of the brilliant cut with 58 facets in which the girdle (edge) outline is boat shaped and each end comes to a point. There are no standard proportions to the marquise cut. If the proportions creating brilliance are not cut precisely, often there appears to be an area in the center of this cut that shows a lack of brilliance; sometimes appearing as a darker "bow-tie" in the diamond (as it's known in the trade). This is able to be corrected with recutting the diamond proportions slightly so that the bow tie will disappear.
The oval cut is another variation of the round brilliant cut diamond with 58 facets although the girdle (edge) outline is elliptical or a rounded oblong. There are no standard proportions to the oval cut. They can be found in shapes varying from long and thin, to short and more broad. If the proportions creating brilliance are not cut precisely, often there appears to be an area in the center of this cut that shows a lack of brilliance; sometimes appearing as a darker "bow-tie" in the diamond (as it's known in the trade). This is able to be corrected with recutting the diamond proportions slightly so that the bow tie will disappear.
The pear shaped cut diamond is another variation of the round brilliant cut diamond with 58 facets, having a girdle (edge) in the shape of a pear. There are no standard proportions to the pear cut.
The princess cut diamond is another variation of the round brilliant cut. It is a square shaped diamond with edges (girdle) that meet at 90 degree angles. It is primarily used in channel set jewelry where the diamonds are set edge to edge with one another for nearly seamless brilliance.
The radiant cut was developed in the 1970's to bring the brilliancy of the round "ideal" cut to a rectangular diamond. It actually combines the emerald cut (step cut) on the top of the diamond and the brilliant cut facets on the bottom of the diamond. This cut has the advantage of the brilliance of the "ideal cut" and the advantage of the emerald cut with its ability to show off the color of a diamond. The true radiant cut is a eight sided diamond (in that they have '"cut" corners).
The trillion cut was developed in the late seventies. The cut is an adaptation of the radiant cut but it is in a triangular shape. The trillion is a triangle that has equilateral sides and is a combination cut of the step cut and the brilliant cut diamond and when cut correctly have a wonderful brilliance. They are often cut shallow and often look large for their carat weight. Trillion diamonds are beautiful when flanking a center diamond.

 

 

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